The Fascinating History of Moccasins
From Native Tribes to Catwalks
There is a shoe that more than many others has been able to combine tradition and modernity, I am talking about the moccasin. A timeless classic that today is forcefully returning to the forefront in the looks of men and women of all ages.
Before becoming a symbol of urban refinement and a must-have, the moccasin has travelled a long and fascinating path that has its roots in the beating heart of history.
The origin of the moccasin dates back to well before fashion had a name. The first versions were handcrafted by Native American tribes, particularly the Algonquins , a people who inhabited the northeastern regions of present-day North America.
The very term “moccasin” comes from their language: a word that simply meant “shoe.” It was an extremely functional shoe made of soft deer or elk leather , designed to fit perfectly to the foot and its surroundings, often decorated with beads or symbolic embroidery.
The great leap towards the West took place in the early decades of the twentieth century. In the United States, precisely in the 1930s, the Spaulding family observed with interest a type of traditional Norwegian footwear used by milkers: simple, sturdy, made of leather often sewn by hand. From there, the idea: to reinterpret it in a modern key, maintaining its essence and adapting it to the American style.
At the time, however, the most popular footwear was lace-up and highly polished , perfect for formal wear and elite environments. The moccasin with its more relaxed look and lack of laces was considered little more than a house slipper, something to wear while reading the newspaper in an armchair.
The real turning point came in the 1940s, when Broadway and Hollywood legend Fred Astaire began wearing loafers for his tap dance routines.
His choice is an aesthetic and technical question: the moccasins, light and flexible, lend themselves to an agile, precise, spectacular dance. In an instant, what was considered an informal shoe gains an aura of charm and sophistication, also helped by the fact that – after all – it was Fred who was wearing them.
In the 1950s, moccasins landed on the feet of students at the most prestigious American colleges : Harvard, Yale, Princeton. It was the birth of the Ivy League style, precursor of the so-called “preppy style”. Students used to insert a one-cent coin (a penny) into the front tongue of the moccasin, hence the name, still very popular today: “penny loafer” .
Today, after decades of ups and downs, the moccasin is back stronger than ever. A protagonist of the collections of the great fashion houses, loved by influencers, celebrities and fashion enthusiasts, it has established itself as one of the key pieces of the contemporary wardrobe. We find it in shiny leather, suede, with chunky soles , in a minimal version or decorated with chains, tassels or metal details.
Brands reinvent it, young people rediscover it, nostalgics caress it with affection.